what I'm creating, making, doing…

Butterick 6569 Jacket -- a Classic with a Twist

Butterick 6569 is a contemporary take on the classic baseball or bomber jacket with a generous collar to frame your face, two pockets, an exposed zipper and a flattering angled front joining the flared back.

The collar, cuffs and front trim can be sewn with a ribbed trim or any reasonably stable knit. Ponte works well -- for any part of this jacket actually, as does fleece or a sweater knit. If using a lighter weight knit consider a lighter weight zipper. All the fabrics used here are from MarcyTilton.com (of course). Please note that some fabrics may be out of stock but great new fabrics are always available.

The back on this version is made from one of the marvelous printed Pontes from Marcy's website.

Combined with a piece of over-dyed check on the front, it's a personal wardrobe favorite that spices up my basic blacks. The over-dyed check is a very stable knit so cutting it on the bias (yikes!) worked just fine in this case. Using a stable knit assures the sewing construction will go smoothly. The zipper tape is shiny (I think it was described as 'waterproof') which adds a nice textural contrast.

Keeping the zipper in place with double-face tape (either Dritz sewing and Craft Tape or Washaway Wonder Tape) makes installing the separating zipper super simple.

Make sure the zipper is placed correctly for the first stitching -- place it on the wrong side of the front with teeth facing away from the seam line. Pin in place and turn to make sure it's going on the right way. After the first stitching, when you turn the zipper to the right side and stitch it down again the raw seam edge is hidden and everything is nice and neatly finished.

I'm gathering materials and preparing to go to a Diane Ericson Design Outside the Lines retreat in Ashland in March. Christine Mayer from Germany is the guest artist and I'm excited to see how their creativity meshes, divides, tangents, inspires and expands what I do. Where might a week immersed with a group of fabulous women (long-time friends and new) take me?

In this moment it's taking me to my studio to make some new clothes to wear the week of the retreat!

What's on your sewing table today?

A Sweet Shirt -- Butterick 6325

Butterick 6325

Shirt -- Butterick 6325

Totally into shirts these days -- wonderful weather here in southwest Oregon and the Bernina has been stitching up some fun versions of Butterick 6325. This chic version of a classic shirt has a pleated collar, asymmetrical pleat on right front and back and asymmetrical hem with layered peplum on one side.

This simple to sew pattern lends itself to many design iterations and the envelope contains both long and short versions. All shirts shown are the long version.

Pieced using Japanese cottons

Pieced using Japanese cottons

This version was made using three different Japanese cottons from MarcyTilton.com. Pre-washed in my usual cavalier fashion -- a quick wash and a toss in the dryer, then to the ironing board. The fun part is figuring out what fabric goes where. Placement is pondered but frequently the size of the remnant determines what happens with it.

In this version a seam was created on the left back side to utilize the piece of the pale green. It was needed to balance the sleeve and underside of the collar.

Underside of collar

The under collar was pieced, using the selvedge edge as an overlap. It's such a joy using the selvedge edge of these beautiful Japanese cottons as they frequently have words printed on them. The selvedge edge was used for the sleeve 'hems' on this shirt and French seams keep the look tidy when the sleeves are rolled up.

Striped rayon

Into loving blue these days. Certain blues are known in the trade as being 'denim friendly' (I'm quite the jeans girl).

An irregularly dyed rayon and linen blend

When washed and dried this fabric softened but kept its body (which I liked). Sewed up like a dream. I used the selvedge again, as sleeve edges, as the 'hem' edge on the peplum panels and as trim on the collar.

Collar detail with selvedge accent

Front of collar with selvedge detail

The pattern piece for the under collar was cut double and used for the top collar as well, eliminating the pleats. The selvedge trim's length was determined by what scraps of selvedge were left. Edges that would show were hemmed and pinned randomly to the collar, folded a bit for interest and then stitched into the collar seam. (After stitching up six plus shirts I am always open to and ready for some variations!)

Back of Butterick 6325

Here you can see the back pleat and peplum detail

Then there's the question of fabric. Butterick 6325 is perfect for linen (mid to lightweight), cottons and other wovens with or without stretch. All the fabric is from MarcyTilton.com.

Now about the yardage and layout... The back piece of this pattern is asymmetrical and wider at the hem which means it's an ample pattern piece, so if your fabric is not wide enough you can add a seam on the back or cut it on the crossgrain.

Check out our ParisTilton tours and give me a call at 612.247.6285 if you have any questions or want to join us.

Happy sewing!!!

This blog was originally published on my old blog and has been revised.

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